Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
